Top 10 Disney Parks Night Photography Tips
Night photography is tricky, but can be incredibly fun at Walt Disney World, Disneyland, and other Disney Parks. This post covers my top tips and tricks for night photography in the parks based on common questions I’ve received. It touches upon everything you should know about nighttime photography, from what equipment you need to settings and other ideas to make your night photos awesome.
Getting started in nighttime photography can be daunting, especially for beginner photographers. In large part, this is because it’s not as intuitive as taking photos during the day. Additionally, it requires knowledge of your camera’s controls, manual settings, and certain equipment. Once you have all of that, you’re good to go.
The plus side is that “certain equipment” doesn’t mean you need the top DSLR for Disney Parks photography. I receive more questions about night photography than any other kind of photography, but the fact is that nighttime photography is not difficult at all, so long as you are armed with knowledge and a couple pieces of gear. In fact, you can get pretty good night photos in the Disney Parks with a point and shoot camera.
So what do you need, equipment-wise and knowledge-wise? Let’s take a look…
10. Lethal Weapon VI: Tripods
When it comes to night photography, a tripod is a necessary ‘weapon’ if you want a killer photo. This is the first tip on the list because whether you’re willing to carry a tripod is a bit of a threshold question. A lot of people ask me how to get great night photos, but they don’t want to use a tripod. Totally understandable, as the priority for most Disney vacations is family time, with photography squeezed in when they can. However, for consistently great photos over which you have full creative control, a tripod is necessary.
It enables you to compose the photo where you want, and stabilizes the camera during longer exposures necessary for night scenes. For Disney, I use the Luxi L III by Velbon, which is a light-weight and inexpensive travel tripod. If you want something higher quality and more versatile, the MeFoto RoadTrip Travel Tripod is a great option. Read my Choosing the Best Travel Tripods post for insight into which might be best for you.
9. Trash Cans Are Friends (Not Food?)
The good news for the 99% of you who aren’t crazy enough to carry a tripod to the Disney Parks is that there are alternatives. As Walt Disney famously said, “Disneyland is a place for the young, young at heart, and oodles and oodles of trash cans. Oh, and Olaf.” Or something like that. I don’t think most people realize how many trash cans Walt Disney World, Disneyland, and the other parks have until they need one to take photos.
You can use a variety of random articles to position your camera and lens the way you need them angled on top of the trash can, but the best options are a photography bean bag or a table top tripod or a Gorilla Pod. The downside is that you don’t have creative control over the placement of trash cans, but they along with other random places you can rest your camera work for stabilization in a pinch.
8. Do Not Touch.
Even the slightest movement of the camera is the difference between a crisp night photo and a blurry one. This includes touching the camera in any way during the exposure, even pressing the shutter to take the photo (when I said, “even the slightest,” I meant it!). Instead, you’ll want to use the camera’s built-in self timer or, better yet, a remote.
A seemingly minor detail, but the devil is in the details. You can purchase infrared remotes, but a wired one is better and offers more functionality. My pick is the CHEAP-O® Display Remote (from the makers of my highly recommended CHEAP-O® Fader Neutral Density Filter), which is a fraction of the cost of first party wired remotes.
7. Use Manual Settings
Humans are smarter than cameras. I’m sure that will all change once Skynet goes live, but for now it’s true, so you should use manual settings. Both from a creative perspective and in terms of knowing what’s technically necessary for the precise scene you’re shooting, a photographer armed with knowledge will always produce a better photo than the camera in auto mode. Always.
No two night scenes are the same, so you need actual knowledge of the why and how of proper exposure, not just some memorized settings. I highly recommend picking up Understanding Exposure and learning photography so you can determine for yourself which settings to use based on what you observe and intend for particular shot. Looking at others’ EXIF data doesn’t hurt (and mine for each of these photos can be viewed by clicking a pic, to go to the photo’s SmugMug page, and hitting “info”), but nothing compares with really mastering a knowledge of manual settings for yourself. With that said, the next few tips will give you some general ideas…
6. Go Long!
The most common specific question I get regarding my Disneyland and Walt Disney World night photos is “how did you get a photo without any people?” Most of the time, the answer is pretty simple: stay late and shoot long (exposures). In the last hour to half-hour the parks are open, many areas are fairly empty.
Even if there are people in your scene, it’s pretty easy to eliminate them (or “ghost ’em out” as the kids these days probably say) by using a 20-30 second exposure. With that long of a shutter speed, people moving in your frame won’t show up. Unfortunately, this doesn’t help with the random person transfixed by their phone and standing perfectly still right in the middle of Main Street, but it’s a great trick to use to rid most shots of people.
5. Burst It!
I love ‘bursts in my photos. Sunbursts. Starbursts. Even moonbursts. This is possible to accomplish with a star filter, but that’s really more a stylized special effect filter. It looks more natural if you simply use an aperture of around f/13 to f/16 at achieve starbursts.
You might have to go higher with some lenses (f/20 to f/22), but there is some loss in image quality that way. Also, the higher your aperture number, the longer your shutter speed will need to be. In some particularly dark scenes, you might not be able to go up to f/16 and still keep your exposure length below 30 seconds.
4. Multiple Exposures
Since it’s the trendy thing to do, and I’m a tubular dude (so “cool” that I still use 90s slang…), people assume all of my photos are tone-mapped HDR. I do some Disney Parks HDR photography, but the vast majority of my photos are not HDR. Almost all of my photos are actually a single exposure, and are not tone-mapped.
With that said, for night scenes, I usually take multiple exposures because it’s better to have too many than not enough. If there are really bright areas and really dark areas in your scene, there’s a decent chance combining two different exposures will help. A prime situation is when neon lighting is present (think Sunset Boulevard at Disney’s Hollywood Studios).
3. Avoid the Darkness
Since night is dark, this might sound like a contradiction. There are varying degrees of darkness, though, and what makes photographing the Disney Parks at night so rewarding is the way the artificial lighting that the Imagineers utilize can really enhance a scene. Unfortunately, interesting artificial lighting isn’t appropriate everywhere, and some scenes make for dull nighttime photos as a result.
While post processing and longer exposures can help bring out detail in shadows, if a scene is mostly shadows, no amount of post processing or length of exposure will save it. Chances are, it will just be a dull photo. The best photos will be where there’s a good mix of shadow and light, which gives a photo depth and texture.
2. Don’t Forget Composition
If you’ve never taken good night shots, they can be a novelty when you start out. As a result, the necessity of good composition might slip your mind. I speak from experience. Looking back at my early photos, I notice a lot of creative composition in my daytime photos and a lot of ‘stick the tripod in front of something and take a capture a flat scene’ night shots, most of which I now find pretty uninteresting. I tried harder with the daytime shots because I wasn’t impressed with a basic daytime scene by itself.
In hindsight, I’m not longer impressed with with a basic nighttime scene. I mention this mistake I made because I see many Disney photographers falling into the same trap with super-basic, super-boring nightscapes. Leading lines, shadow and light play, and a sense of depth all can help elevate an ordinary night scene into something spectacular. This isn’t to say you should avoid the basic shots (they’re admittedly fun), but get creative, too.
1. Overexpose
Most of the tips on the list are really things any skilled photographer could tell you, but #1 is one of my secrets to the look of my photos. I normally overexpose my night photos, which makes them pop. This is why my night shots frequently have deep blue skies, detailed shadow areas, and an overall, vibrant “punch” to them. Slightly overexposing scenes means they are brighter and more detailed than what the naked eye would see at night, giving the photos a bit of hyper-realism.
With this, there’s a fine line between looking like an amplified version of reality and looking cartoonish. Ultimately, where that line falls is a personal thing. I think my photos push the bounds on realism just the right amount, but I’m sure others think they look garish. This definitely comes down to personal preference, and is a “salt to taste” thing. Try out varying amounts of overexposure in your own photos to see what works for you.
Of course, you will have to make sure you apply the right kind of post processing to that overexposed photo so it really pops. This is another salt to taste thing, and another topic for another day (and post).
If you do want to purchase anything photography equipment from Amazon, please use the links here (like this one). You can also find equipment at B&H Photography by clicking here. Using the links here help support this blog at no cost to you, and help us continue to provide you with great good okay content.
If you’re looking for other photography equipment recommendations or photography tips in general check out a few of my top photography blog posts. The best place to start is my Ultimate Disney Parks Photography Guide. Some additional posts you might enjoy:
Best Books for Improving Your Photography
5 Indispensable Tips for Better Vacation Photos
Infrared Photography Guide & Tips
Choosing the Best Camera Bag for Travel
If you enjoy these photography posts, please help me out by sharing them with friends or on social media. Thanks!
YOUR THOUGHTS…
Do you have any tips or tricks for night photography? What’s your favorite spot in the parks at night? Other questions? Any recommendations? Share any thoughts or questions you have in the comments!
I benefited a lot from your post
Hello Tom.. Sorry for this LATE reply! But great article – and fantastic photos on your smugmug site!
Being only an amateur – I’ve been using a Powershot G12 / 15 / 16 since it can fit in my pocket and at the time – gave me the best bang for buck in portability and controls (but lack wide angle which is one big downside 🙁 . I hear you on using the Manual mode… However, my greatest challenge is taking pictures on indoor rides – without flash… Meaning – it’s low light, and you are always moving… Eg. Pirates, Small World, Pan, etc. I actually saw one of your photos in the Magic Kingdom collection was of Jack Sparrow from the Pirate ride – and it came out damn good! What manual settings for speed, ISO, aperture etc. would be recommended to try for those situations? I’ve tried various on the rides but I end up spending a lot of time fiddling with settings instead of taking pics and enjoying the ride myself…. Thanks again.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the great article – a lot of the shots above are sans people. Everytime I have been to the park, it is jam packed. What are your tips for shooting and not capturing people. A lot of shots on the Internet are DEVOID of all people (long shots down Main Street). Tip 9 above (about trash cans) shows Main Street – but not a person in sight.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Hey Tom,
I was in Shanghai Disneyland last week and was going to try to get some cool night time shoots.
I took your advice, got a good sturdy tripod and headed into the park only to get stopped by Disneyland Security. They said I couldn’t go into the park with a tripod. It was only 15 inches folded up, a travel tripod, so it wasn’t huge by any means. (i.e. not a professional sized tripod).
Have you had this happen before you? And how did you get around it?
I am going to Tokyo Disneyland and Hong Kong Disneyland and I’d like to see if you have any suggestions, or if there’s a plan B.
Thanks Tony
Shanghai allowed tripods when I visited, but apparently has changed their policy since (the website indicates they’re still allowed, but I’ve heard from multiple people that they are not). Tripods are not allowed at Tokyo Disney Resort.
Every other park, including HKDL, allows tripods.
What’s the plan B for Tokyo to do nighttime photos? A bean bag or a small gorilla like tripod? Or just, as you suggested, the garbage can trick?
Hi Tom ,LOVE your photos especially your Fireworks shots !!….You say most of your photos are NOT HDR ……What software do you use in Post Processing and how are you getting the HDR look ??…..
How do we keep up with Future articles from you ??…..
Thanks and keep up the GREAT work of Sharing your Knowledge !…
Tom,
Is there somewhere that has like “the 10 best tips for day time photos”
I am getting my first DSLR in the mail in a couple of weeks, and I am really excited to play with it before I go to DW in October, but I didn’t know if there was something you usually kept your camera on? I also bought the Understanding Exposure book, and I am looking forward to reading it, but I am trying to learn a lot through here as well. Also, how do you think I should be practicing with it before Disney? I want to come home with good photos.
great right up! it seems like every time i read one of your blogs i end up buying something on Amazon! lol
Great article Tom! Like others, the overexposure tip on night shots was a surprise. I always thought your rule of underexposing a bit in dark rides crossed over to night shots. I’ll definitely have to try that when in the parks.
As a side, have you ever shot with the Rokinon 12mm f/2.8?
Yep, I love that lens! https://www.disneytouristblog.com/rokinon-12mm-f2-8-fisheye-lens-review/
Tom- have you ever considered doing a photography class at the park to teach some of your Disney photo tips in person? I’m sure I’m not the only one that would be quite interested and willing to pay for a class!
I think Disney might “frown upon” that. Also, I’m not sure I’d be the best in person teacher. It’s one thing writing a post and gathering my thoughts that way. Totally different in person.
Like George stated above, while these posts don’t get as much traffic as you would like its what brought me here as well. Makes me think of the early days back in WDWmagic and disboards….sigh.
Response to this one was pretty positive, so I’ll definitely be doing more of these.
Thanks for this post! I know that your photography-related posts get less traffic than your others, but that’s what brought me to your site in the first place, so I love to see them! I especially appreciate the last item about overexposing, as that isn’t something I’ve seen elsewhere.
Actually, I have one question: where do you generally meter at night? And do you use spot metering? I try to use spot metering on areas of “medium” brightness for a given scene, but I’ve found that doesn’t always get the result I’m going for. Any advice?
Thank you for doing this. I know many people don’t read your photo tips ( shame on them), but I am really glad that you do. I am also glad to know that when I over expose my photos and the night sky turns blue that is ok. I have been practicing night photos for the Halloween party next month. I think with these extra tips it is going to turn out to be a really great night of photography.
Thank you again- please keep the photo tips coming.
Robert
I guess it’s a matter of personal preference as to whether you *want* the sky to appear blue. I like the look, but others might not.
Awesome post! Thanks for writing it!
I was thinking the other day about trying long exposures on Main Street, but thought they might be too bright. I went to your photo of Main Street (the one illustrating your “trash can” point) on SmugMug to look at your settings, but when I click the info button, it doesn’t do anything. Probably my computer’s fault though.
Weird. Here ya go:
Camera NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D600
ISO 100
Focal Length 44mm (44mm in 35mm)
Aperture f/11
Exposure Time 7.4s (74/10)
Thanks Tom for all the great tips they encourage me to up my photography by taking the plunge by buying a better camera. It’s always been the feeling that I would underutilize the DSLR that has held me back, as I don’t have the time to really research its proper use, on my own.
To your cool links up top, can I add https://www.disneytouristblog.com/iphoneography-disney/ for your great tips on shooting with an iPhone? I doubt I would’ve found the Camera+ app on my own, otherwise!
Parts of the iPhoneography article are outdated. I plan on looking at it later this weekend and determining whether I need to rewrite it, or if I can just update that post. Thanks for the suggestion!
Great article, Tom. There are some really good tips in there for a beginner photographer such as myself. Also, quick random question: in tip #3’s picture did you Photoshop out the big light posts surrounding the fountain?
Honestly, I don’t remember. I think I cropped it out, but I might have used the clone stamp or healing brush.
Would love a follow up post on how to take portraits at night with flash!
Yessss. I want to take night portraits like yours!!
Ah, I totally forgot about that request. I will get to that soon, I swear!
Tom,
Thanks so much for this post! As someone who is just getting into photography AND taking their first ever trip to Disneyland this October, this post could not have come at a better time! I really look forward to upcoming post (particularly on post-processing)
You the real MVP.
Thanks for the info. Great tips as always. I just took notes to study and bring with me when I head to DL in a few weeks! I already had a general idea or so about most of these, however I never thought about intentionally overexposing at night before. I am always jealous of the amazing blue skies and vibrant colors you are able to achieve in your night shots so I am thrilled you shared this tip with us. I would love to see the teased follow up sometime about post processing an overexposed night photo. I am also eager to try the layering of different exposure photos. I am just getting into layers with post production so still have very much to learn in that regard.
Layers will change the way you post process photos. It always amazes me when people say they only use [insert name of editing software that isn’t Photoshop], because layers is the single greatest aspect of any photo editing program. A real game changer.
Tom –
Very pleased to see a photography post as you have not written very many in recent months.
1) Are your recommendations for fast / low light lenses for Nikon cropped cameras (e.g. D7100) still the same as the ones you wrote about in the past or are there newer ones that should be considered? I know you don’t really use cropped any more but you are really the best source of info since your application (Disney photography) is what we would mainly use the lens(es) for. We are thinking of buying in the next few months before we go on our next trip.
2) Looking forward to any comprehensive posts on post-processing editing to give us the style of look you have in your photos. Especially any written in language for post-processing neophytes. One problem I have found with the few books I have read is that they give before and after examples and state what the differences are (e.g. shadows, contrast intensity, histogram issues, noise in photos at high ISO etc) but the differences are not so obvious to those who don’t know what they are looking for or the differences are rather subtle so it is difficult to understand the writer.
3) If you have not been to B&H in NYC, you really should go. It is incredibly awesome, fantastic service which is also very fast, lots of staff and an unique way of processing orders that I have not seen at other stores. The first time I was there less than 90 minutes with a shopping list during a transportation layover, had questions and got everything fast. I had to show my S.O. the store the next time we were in NYC. A great conversation item.
Love seeing another photo centered write up so soon following the D750 write up. The tips definitely help. I know on our last trip To WDW there were a lot of night photos taken some of which might have been salvaged with some of this information. Having a fast prime did help make a difference ( sigma 30mm art for Apc).
Any input on the wireless NEEWER release ?
I have long been wanting a tourist blog post processing write up, to see a before and after from RAW/DNG to finished product to see the work flow involved in getting the finished look. Fingers Crossed
I haven’t used the wireless NEWEER remote. I use a bunch of their stuff though, and for a cheap off-brand (I’m sure they’d love to find out I’m calling them CHEAP-O brand!) it usually is pretty reliable.
I haven’t been writing many photography posts because not many people read them. There’s a vocal group here who wants more of them…but they still don’t get read much. Hence my ‘share’ request. 🙂
To be honest, I haven’t closely followed new crop sensor lens releases in the last year, but I have not heard of any “killer” new lenses. I need to do some research back into that to catch up, though.
No matter how you slice it, post processing is a difficult topic to read/write about. The best way to learn is probably via YouTube videos, and I have absolutely no interest in making those. Sorry.
I’ve been to B&H in NYC. It is amazing. I love their little basket delivery conveyor thing (I’m pretty sure that’s what you’re talking about).