“Impressions de Bricker” France Report – Part 4
Sacré-CÅ“ur Basilica is that better option. We headed there from Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris via the Metro after having lunch. Sacré-CÅ“ur is a bit aways from most other tourist spots downtown, located perched high upon Montmartre (a hill). To get there from the Metro station, you go through a commercial district that doesn’t have quite the same charm as Paris, but is interesting, nonetheless.
Going to Sacré-Coeur was Sarah’s idea, but we all agreed that it would be a worthwhile spot to visit, particularly in late afternoon and towards sunset. When I first saw Sacré-CÅ“ur, I did a double take, as I thought it was a distorted photo of the Taj Mahal. The dome reminds me more of Mughal architecture than Gothic styles elsewhere in Paris. I know it’s neither, which is part of the appeal: it’s unique.
Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside the Basilica at Sacré-Coeur, and I did not break this rule. If you search via Google, you can find photos of the interior. You should look for them, as it’s absolutely stunning. We sat and simply gazed up at the ceiling for a while because it was so stunning. I’m actually a bit surprised it was not featured in Impressions de France, but then again, they probably didn’t want the film to be too Paris-heavy.
Sacré-Coeur had a totally different atmosphere than Notre Dame–it felt like an actual place of worship. Obviously, there were plenty of tourists, too, but the rules here dictated a different code of conduct, and most visitors respected that. Sarah and I both found the overall experience here to be far better than Notre Dame. (Really, though, I’d consider both must dos; they are dramatically different from one another.
After we had spent a good amount of time inside, we headed back out. Mark decided to climb out to the observation area. Located on Montmartre hill on the outskirts of the city, Sacré-Coeur offers great views of Paris.
I had tweaked my back in my sleep and was not feeling up for another few-hundred stairs, so we decided to sit it out. In hindsight, I wish we would’ve done it, but on the plus side, we got to see an amazing street performer…
Seriously, this guy was awesome. Part acrobat, part soccer player, it was pretty amazing to watch him.
Tons of visitors were gathered on the steps to Sacré-Coeur, and pretty much the entire crowd was transfixed.
Above is a video of him in action.
Since there were so many people on the lawn and steps at Sacré-CÅ“ur, we decided to head elsewhere for sunset. We retraced our steps, heading back to Notre Dame…
For some reason, we walked the long way around (we walked nearly a mile between the two above photos), but this was our ultimate sunset spot. This same bridge is where the Bastille Day balloons are released during Impressions de France (just to tie things back to Epcot).
From there, it was off to The Louvre for some dusk photos of the pyramids outside. Although we’ve been outside The Louvre a few times, Sarah and I still have yet to go inside the museum. I think next time we will buy a museum pass and spend some time there.
On this particular day, we couldn’t even get to the courtyard of The Louvre. It appeared there was a private event taking place after hours, and Sarah said she thought it was for Paris Fashion Week. In that case, I’m going to go ahead and blame the Kardashians…just because.
We wandered all over the place after that, but I didn’t seem to take many photos along the way. Even though the Metro is nice (and some of the stations are unique and cool), walking through Paris is such a pleasant experience that we rarely use it when visiting.
The architecture, all-around, is beautiful in Paris, but it goes beyond that. Even the simplest things seem to be prettier in Paris. From park benches to walkways to fountains and beyond (even the advertising columns!), there’s a level of detail and quality with which few other places can compete.
We finally made our way over to the Eiffel Tower, where we spent some time wandering around. We had not gone directly under it that morning, so we were a bit taken aback to see a security perimeter set up under the Tower itself.
This was new since our last visit, and was not altogether surprising given the unrest in France of late. Paris has an almost Fantasyland-like quality that overcomes you and pulls you out of reality; like Walt Disney World, it’s easy to not think about it in “real world” terms (as naive as that might sound). At no point did I worry about safety in France, but this momentarily pulled me back to reality.
Finally, the last shot of the evening. If I were to make a “pitch” to convince people to visit Paris for its romanticism, beauty, and history, this is the type of photo I’d use to accompany that pitch.
The irony would be that this scene, under the Eiffel Tower, does not match the mystique. Obviously, the Eiffel Tower is beautiful and a symbol of France. However, at this particular moment, there were numerous other people on the lawn (some of whom were, ahem, ‘going at it’) and a half-dozen hawkers trying to sell cheap champagne.
While Paris is one of the most incredible cities on earth (I’d put it up there with Kyoto, Japan for the top slot), I think the Eiffel Tower–the very icon of all that is great about Paris–is actually lacking in those qualities. I don’t know, perhaps it’s because I mentally idealized the Eiffel Tower so much prior to our first visit and was surprised that the reality was far different from that, but I’m not a huge fan. It’s neat to see, but aside from its symbolic stature, I would not put it on a Paris top 10 list.
After that, we decided to call it a night. If you’ll recall, our Airbnb was 45 minutes from the Eiffel Tower by foot; rather than walking that (I ended up logging 40,614 steps and 18.13 miles that day per Fitbit), we opted to take the Metro back.
The next day was my favorite day of the trip: our visit to the Loire Valley…
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YOUR THOUGHTS…
Have you visited Paris? What did you think of it? Any favorite spots? Regardless of whether you have or have not visited, what are your impressions of Paris? Thoughts on our Impressions de France tour? We’d love hearing some feedback on the report thus far, so please share any other thoughts or questions you have, in the comments!
While I can understand your different experiences of Sacre Coeur and Notre Dame, my wife and I had a notable experience at Notre Dame. We visited Paris during Lent and attended the Friday afternoon mass venerating the Crown of Thorns. This was a very different experience than you describe. But both churches are must sees.
It’s crazy to see your report from Paris and see so many of the same things! We also saw the soccer guy at Sacré-CÅ“ur. He was seriously amazing!
I have yet to really SEE Sacré-Coeur . We’ve been to Paris twice, but the first trip, while we went inside, everything was blocked by scaffolding as they were cleaning and refurbishing the artwork, so we didn’t actually get to see it, though I did by a book so I could see pictures. The 2nd time we went, we got up there only to find they were having a mass, so you couldn’t go in and look around.
But, I agree about Notre Dame…if you look at it not as a place of worship, but a work of art, it is awe-inspiring. But if you are looking for a religious experience, that would not be at the top of my list of places to go looking. My place for worship there was Saint-Germain des pres. It’s one of the oldest (perhaps THE oldest) church in Paris and while it is not the elaborate, gilded masterwork that some others are, it has a peace about it and I sat there for quite a while just reflecting and I just felt closer to God there than I ever have before. It’s not someplace I would necessarily seek out as a tourist attraction, but if you are looking for a place of spirituality, I would recommend it.
You saved the best images for this post. The photos from the Cathedral are simply impressive. I would love to visit that Church someday. The last image with Sarah and you is downright perfect. I can’t imagine a more romantic image that you will both cherish for many years to come.
Mike D.
I can’t believe you haven’t gone to the top of the Eiffel Tower. It is so amazing! The line was no worse than waiting for a Disney ride and you get as much time as you want at the top unlike a 30 second ride. When I visited Notre Dame it happened to be a Sunday. There was a church service going on and it was beautiful. I felt bad that we were just touring during the service and walking around while it was going on. I wished that I could have stayed and joined the service. I am definitely going to go to Sacre Couer my next trip.
I would be so scared to drive in a different country, let alone around the Arc de Triomphe. I am so happy you guys survived this perilous journey! Sacre Coeur looks so beautiful, my sister and I saw it from a distance when we were in Paris and I would love to visit again and go inside. Your photos are beautiful as always, I love the last one of you and Sarah. Thank you for sharing your travels with us, I am loving the trip report!
My husband and I were also in Paris for the DP Inaugural Half Marathon! (We started at Disneyland then spent the week afterward in Paris.) I would HIGHLY recommend a company called Paris Muse for skip-the-line guided tours of the Louvre. (We also did a city walking tour with them, which was also fantastic; and I imagine their other museum and walking tours are similarly excellent.) It is pricey but worth every single penny, in my mind. The Louvre is ginormous and can be overwhelming (and I’ve visited before on my own), but I came out of our 2.5-hour tour feeling invigorated, vs. drained (which is usually the case with other museums, no matter how much I enjoy them). The tour guides are literally Ph.D. experts in the fields of art, architecture, and history. I wish we had actually done more tours with them! The tours are also limited to 4 people, and for both of our tours we were actually the only 2 with the guide. Loved it and will absolutely book with them again next time.
I never knew so many of these places existed! I would love to do a trip like this someday, but would be worried to do it on my own and drive in another country.
When you and Sarah become tour guides, I’ll be the first to sign up. It would be so fun to join my internet friends 😉 on these adventures and join in for photography sessions. (I promise I’m not a stalker even if that sounds bad!)
Haha, you don’t sound like a stalker at all!
As for being a tour guide…given the number of misadventures we have, I doubt either of us would be qualified to lead others and organize logistics. A few people have actually asked/suggested the same for trips to Tokyo Disney Resort, and that’s probably the place where it would be most feasible (and where we’d be comfortable not making mistakes), but I don’t believe they allow third party tour guides into the park.
The idea does sound pretty fun, and we have a couple of other ideas for how it *might* work, but they’re probably just unrealistic pipe dreams.
Tokyo Disney group trip with you and Sarah as tour guides sounds awesome! Let me know when to sign up!! 🙂
believe me, you have to be a real parisian to drive around the arc de triomphe. 12 roads (some very big) leading to that HUGE round-about (probably one of the biggest in France), I confirm that it seems crazy when you look at it on the sidewalk and it is far worst when you’re inside !!! Bravo to Mark !!! But what a pleasure to join the Champs Elysées (especially at night) with the huge ferris wheel at the end of the street.
Regarding the Notre Dame Tower, I think that it is posible to buy tickets online, like for many museum or tourist places all over the world, with a time of arrival.
When you talk about the commercial district that doesn’t have quite the same charm as Paris, are you talking about Pigalle ? If it’s true, I understand your words 😀
I’m happy that you saw Iya Traore, a real artist in its field. He is well know in Montmartre (probably more that the artists on place du tertre)
Regarding the Eiffel Tower (I see it from my office), have you waited the flashing lights on it (and the lighthouse turning light on the top) ? It’s every hour at night and it lasts about 5-6 mn. It is one one the most beautiful thing to see in Paris !!!
Thanks for the confirmation on the insanity that is the Arc de Triomphe traffic circle. I would call it “organized chaos” but I don’t think there was anything organized about it.
We saw the ‘twinkle lights’ show this visit, and in the past have seen the rotating search light as well, but never saw it this time. I’m not sure why…
I loved Sacre Coeur! I have visited it twice now and would go again. I remember visiting Cafe Les Deux Moulins in Montmartre on the way to Sacre Coeur, made famous in the movie Amelie and ordering the Creme Brûlée that she eats in the movie. Bliss! I did learn to be aware of a particular night tour – I did a city lights tour and we were picked up two hours late for it and then our guide left us sitting in the van for 20 minutes so she could have a cigarette to deal with the stress of being late!
Amelie has long been one of those movies on my “list” of things to watch, but I’ve never gotten around to it. Now that I know Sacre Coeur is included in it, I’ll have to actually make a point of watching.
That sounds awful about the tour guide. Sorry to hear about that experience!
I haven’t been back to Paris since 1991, but one of my most distinct memories was inside Sacre Couer. Looking up at the ceiling literally brought tears to my eyes. I had the overwhelming feeling of being in the presence of God. Powerful!!
I’m actually somewhat glad photos are not allowed inside, as seeing it in person was my first exposure to that ceiling, and it definitely had more of an impactful, wow-factor that way. Really, really stunning!
I LOVE that photo of you and Sarah. So cute 🙂
Thank you!
Did you go to the top of the Eiffel Tower? I think that is a neat experience.
As for cathedrals, when were were in France before we visited Notre Dame as well as Chartre to the SW of Paris. Chartre lets you climb to the top and see gargoyles, but without the netting or the line – I remember it being a far superior experience. (This summer, we didn’t visit Chartre nor did we brave the line for the Notre Dame towers).
I’d highly recommend the Museum Pass. Even for the short time we were in Paris, it was worthwhile. The Louvre is neat, and the Musee d’Orsay has arguably better artwork. Throw in quick stops to places we might otherwise skip (crypts of Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe, Pantheon) and we found it worthwhile.
Me must had followed your path in reverse – leaving Paris to Versaille/Normandy, our GPS took us through the traffic circle around the Arc de Triomphe. It’s definitely memorable!
We have not gone to the top. Sarah is afraid of doing it, and given the time commitment, it’d be rude of me to go and just make her wait. It’s something I’d love to do at some point, so maybe she can get drunk first and we can go next time! 😉
That’s good to know about Chartre–I’ll look into that for next time. I think an experience without all of the obstructions would be a lot better, even if it is hard to beat the legendary status of the Notre Dame gargoyles.
Loving these reports! The photos are amazing and so are the Disney connections!